First Landfall – Half Moon Island

(Tuesday Afternoon)

By about 2:30 PM, we arrived at Half Moon Island and excitedly suited up for our first trip to shore. Half Moon Island is a tiny crescent shaped island situated in a channel between the much larger Livingston and Greenwich Islands. It is the home to a rookery of maybe 1,000 chinstrap penguins, some fur seals, and an Argentine scientific station.

By 3:15, we were setting foot on Half Moon's rocky beach. I think everyone in our group probably had a similar feeling of “Am I really doing this?” The penguins are a lot of fun to watch. They really are adorable, and you just want to help them as the struggle up to the rookery, but we obediently kept our distance, and as instructed in the morning, gave them the right of way.

As is known to happen in these parts, the weather began to go downhill in a hurry. By the time we were trudging to the far side of the island where some seals were hanging out, we were experiencing a pretty raw drizzle. We did see a couple of seals on the far side of the island, but they seemed pretty bored with us, and were just laying around, so we didn't stay long.

We were only allowed an hour on the island, and had been instructed that if anyone wanted to join the Antarctic Swim Club, the best time to do it would be just before our scheduled pickup. Then, swimmers would be afforded priority seating on the next Polar Cirkel launch to leave for our ship... a VERY understandable accommodation. A few in a group had been talking about going in the water, including our tour guide Elizabeth, but I really didn't take them seriously. The water temperature here is about 35 degrees.

To my shock, as we trekked across the ridge from the seal area, there was Elizabeth, rapidly disrobing to reveal a swimsuit. We hustled down the hillside, cameras at the ready, just in time to catch Elizabeth's swim (it's really a dunk but impressive nonetheless, considering where we are). Then, to my further shock, several others in our group did the same.

So now I'm thinking, if we get another chance, I just might try it. I put my hand in the water and it did not shock me as expected. I think when the wind is cold, and perhaps due to the freezing rain, the water did not feel as shockingly cold as I thought it would... and guys, I'm told that, um, everything returns to normal in at most 2-3 days :-) Rob