Brown Bluff and Antarctica Sound

We awoke on Saturday to another beautiful day, but VERY different ice conditions. Overnight, we had traveled northeast up the western side of the Antarctic Peninsula, and back down the very first part of the eastern side. On the eastern side, there are huge ice shelves, that break off into huge “tabular” icebergs. Some have almost perfect right angled sides and corners , that makes them look like mammoth one story buildings.

Combined with the regular bergs and bergy bits, we had to pick our way very slowly to our landing spot off the Taburin Peninsula, and a large cooked lava volcanic mound called Brown Bluff.

Brown Bluff is the home to over 20,000 mating pairs of Adelie penguins, and 250 or so pairs of gentoos. Although the area is pretty large, prime penguin real estate is at a premium here. Additionally, the Adelies are generally more aggressive than the other breeds we've seen, so in our short time by the rookery, we observed some pretty good fights, one “play date” gone bad (the parents had to step in), an eviction (where one poor guy got chased right out of the rookery). Any penguin walking to the shore between other nests earns a “stay away” peck from each nest occupant he goes past.

Two Adelie Siblings, or perhaps a "Play Date"

It was also fun to watch groups of penguins waddling along the shore to a certain spot, never the same spot as other groups. At some point, each group would stop, stand around for a minute, and then psych one another up with some penguin motivational cheers, and then into the Antarctic Sound, one by one.

A Group of Adelies Heading for their "Launch Zone"

"OK, Stop Here - This is the Spot."

"Geronimo!!!!"

But now it was time for our own motivational encouragement. It was time for Melanie and I to join the Antarctic Swim Club. It's now or never....