(Tuesday morning)
It's funny that when we first arrived in Ushuaia a little more than a week ago, it really did seem like the end of the world, as they advertise themselves. However, now that we have been to Antarctica, it seems like we are back in civilization.
It's about 50 degrees here, but just a quick transfer and we'll be back on a plane, 3 ½ hours to Buenos Aires, where it's supposed to be a hot and humid 87 degrees.
Wednesday, January 12, 2011
Cape Horn – Revenge of “the Drake”
By Saturday night, we were passing by the South Shetland Islands and back into the Drake Passage. This time, “the Drake” is living up to its reputation. Yesterday, we rolled along with 8-10 foot ocean swells. Thankfully, the seas died down overnight, but early this morning, ocean swells, wind and waves began to build. We are now about three hours from Cape Horn, with swells of 20-30 feet and winds near 40 knots.
One of our fellow passengers had been claiming to have missed the opportunity to “experience the Drake.” Well we're experiencing it now. The crew is claiming to have recorded gusts of 100 knots. You obviously can't go on deck in these conditions, so we have no pictures of these conditions, but if you watched “The Perfect Storm,” just take it down a couple of notches, throw in some confused waves as we near land, and you'll have the idea. A few members of our group have sequestered themselves in their rooms... not the best idea... I'm hanging out in a lounge near the middle of the ship. Think of it as a seesaw. Where you really want to be is in the middle.
Wait... Land Ho!
One of our fellow passengers had been claiming to have missed the opportunity to “experience the Drake.” Well we're experiencing it now. The crew is claiming to have recorded gusts of 100 knots. You obviously can't go on deck in these conditions, so we have no pictures of these conditions, but if you watched “The Perfect Storm,” just take it down a couple of notches, throw in some confused waves as we near land, and you'll have the idea. A few members of our group have sequestered themselves in their rooms... not the best idea... I'm hanging out in a lounge near the middle of the ship. Think of it as a seesaw. Where you really want to be is in the middle.
Wait... Land Ho!
Weddell Sea and Antarctic Sound – Tabular Icebergs
After our swim, we ghosted out of Antarctica Sound amidst some huge tabular icebergs. Since we are (just barely) on the Eastern side of the Antarctic Peninsula, we are near the edge of the Weddell Sea, which is mostly frozen over. I believe this starts with sea ice, and then snow builds up and compresses in a glacier-like way, creating an “ice shelf” that is flat like a table. In the Spring and summer, large chunks of the “table” break off to form these “tabular” (table-like) icebergs.
Did I say large? The sizes actually range from large to huge to gargantuan to mammoth. According to Wikipedia, the largest iceberg on record was an Antarctic tabular iceberg of over 12,000 sq mi, 208 miles long and 60 miles wide, and they can reach up to 550 feet out of the water. And keep in mind, only a little more than 10% is above the surface.
Here's a shot of one that we went past. I believe it was about ¼ mile long, and not that far from where we swam:
Did I say large? The sizes actually range from large to huge to gargantuan to mammoth. According to Wikipedia, the largest iceberg on record was an Antarctic tabular iceberg of over 12,000 sq mi, 208 miles long and 60 miles wide, and they can reach up to 550 feet out of the water. And keep in mind, only a little more than 10% is above the surface.
Here's a shot of one that we went past. I believe it was about ¼ mile long, and not that far from where we swam:
Sunday, January 9, 2011
Touchdown in Antarctica Sound!
The day was perfect... 41 degrees and sunny... the water was crystal clear and 34 degrees... bergy bits all around... no current, so swimming had been approved by the excursion leader... I had my inspirational Danny Woodhead Patriots shirt on... Melanie had worn her borrowed bathing suit on... we're both nervous but determined... no excuses... no turning back...
Our Antarctica Swimming Club Certificates have been secured. Here are some other pictures leading up to the big moment above:
Melanie looking adorable in a borrowed traditional Antarctic swimsuit
Yes, those are iceberg "bergy bits" in the water
"No turning back"
"Oh God, I can't believe I'm doing this."
Melanie enjoys the moment of truth
Our Antarctica Swimming Club Certificates have been secured. Here are some other pictures leading up to the big moment above:
Brown Bluff and Antarctica Sound
We awoke on Saturday to another beautiful day, but VERY different ice conditions. Overnight, we had traveled northeast up the western side of the Antarctic Peninsula, and back down the very first part of the eastern side. On the eastern side, there are huge ice shelves, that break off into huge “tabular” icebergs. Some have almost perfect right angled sides and corners , that makes them look like mammoth one story buildings.
Combined with the regular bergs and bergy bits, we had to pick our way very slowly to our landing spot off the Taburin Peninsula, and a large cooked lava volcanic mound called Brown Bluff.
Brown Bluff is the home to over 20,000 mating pairs of Adelie penguins, and 250 or so pairs of gentoos. Although the area is pretty large, prime penguin real estate is at a premium here. Additionally, the Adelies are generally more aggressive than the other breeds we've seen, so in our short time by the rookery, we observed some pretty good fights, one “play date” gone bad (the parents had to step in), an eviction (where one poor guy got chased right out of the rookery). Any penguin walking to the shore between other nests earns a “stay away” peck from each nest occupant he goes past.
Two Adelie Siblings, or perhaps a "Play Date"
It was also fun to watch groups of penguins waddling along the shore to a certain spot, never the same spot as other groups. At some point, each group would stop, stand around for a minute, and then psych one another up with some penguin motivational cheers, and then into the Antarctic Sound, one by one.
A Group of Adelies Heading for their "Launch Zone"
"OK, Stop Here - This is the Spot."
"Geronimo!!!!"
But now it was time for our own motivational encouragement. It was time for Melanie and I to join the Antarctic Swim Club. It's now or never....
Combined with the regular bergs and bergy bits, we had to pick our way very slowly to our landing spot off the Taburin Peninsula, and a large cooked lava volcanic mound called Brown Bluff.
Brown Bluff is the home to over 20,000 mating pairs of Adelie penguins, and 250 or so pairs of gentoos. Although the area is pretty large, prime penguin real estate is at a premium here. Additionally, the Adelies are generally more aggressive than the other breeds we've seen, so in our short time by the rookery, we observed some pretty good fights, one “play date” gone bad (the parents had to step in), an eviction (where one poor guy got chased right out of the rookery). Any penguin walking to the shore between other nests earns a “stay away” peck from each nest occupant he goes past.
It was also fun to watch groups of penguins waddling along the shore to a certain spot, never the same spot as other groups. At some point, each group would stop, stand around for a minute, and then psych one another up with some penguin motivational cheers, and then into the Antarctic Sound, one by one.
But now it was time for our own motivational encouragement. It was time for Melanie and I to join the Antarctic Swim Club. It's now or never....
Saturday, January 8, 2011
Wilhelmina Bay
On Friday afternoon, there was no landing scheduled, just a “ship tour” around the bay. This bay was prime whaling territory and there were plenty of humpbacks around.
As we left the bay, our attention was directed to a hundred year old wreck near the bay entrance. No-one was using the telescope in the observation lounge so I took a peek at the wreck. To my shock, there were two people standing on a huge snowbank on the shoreline near the wreck. They were easily visible (at least in the telescope) due to their bright clothing. How strange it seemed to see people on their own outside any tourist zone. We had seen a sailboat motoring along earlier, so I assume it was those intrepid cruisers I was seeing in the telescope.
As a sailor myself, I like to read about people who have thrown off the shackles of civilization and sailed off “over the horizon.” I have even met some folks who have done it. But the destination for most is the Caribbean or South Pacific. The cruisers around Antarctica are the hard core cruisers, folks who don't mind enduring some hardships (such as the Drake Passage) to live the adventure. We have seen a few sailboats around since arriving here. I admire these people very much, but following them is not on my “bucket list.” Pass the margaritas, please :-) Rob
As we left the bay, our attention was directed to a hundred year old wreck near the bay entrance. No-one was using the telescope in the observation lounge so I took a peek at the wreck. To my shock, there were two people standing on a huge snowbank on the shoreline near the wreck. They were easily visible (at least in the telescope) due to their bright clothing. How strange it seemed to see people on their own outside any tourist zone. We had seen a sailboat motoring along earlier, so I assume it was those intrepid cruisers I was seeing in the telescope.
As a sailor myself, I like to read about people who have thrown off the shackles of civilization and sailed off “over the horizon.” I have even met some folks who have done it. But the destination for most is the Caribbean or South Pacific. The cruisers around Antarctica are the hard core cruisers, folks who don't mind enduring some hardships (such as the Drake Passage) to live the adventure. We have seen a few sailboats around since arriving here. I admire these people very much, but following them is not on my “bucket list.” Pass the margaritas, please :-) Rob
Almirante Brown – Body Surfing Down the Mountain
On Friday Morning, we stopped at Almirante Brown, a closed Argentinian base with an interesting history. Seven researchers were assigned here in the early 1980s, but after serving a year here, the Argentinian government told them to stay one more year as they didn't have the funds to bring them home. When this happened A SECOND TIME, in 1984, the station's doctor went “slightly mad” and burned the station down, turning their return trip into a rescue ... maybe he wasn't so mad after all.
This was our first landing on the Antarctic continent... all previous landings have been islands. We were hoping to swim here also, but the current here was also too strong... the launches had trouble loading/unloading both at the ship and at the landing site.
We're almost “penguined out,” so we decided to climb the hill and body surf down in the snow. I have given up taking pictures because we have such good photographers, with such great equipment, in our group. But I continue to bring the iPhone for some quick movies. This time, I got Melanie body-sliding down the slope. For this blog, the pictures will have to do.
The "mountain" as seen from the ship
The "mountain" as seen from the bottom
Melanie on her way down
Happy she made it
Oh yes, I went too
On a personal note, a big, big Antarctic “happy birthday” to our second-born daughter Tara. We had a laugh (and were quite impressed) when our eight-year-old grandson Jack answered our birthday call. I said “Greetings from Antarctica!” ... Jack laughed, and without missing a beat, replied, “Hello from North America!” ... the kid is quick :-) Rob
This was our first landing on the Antarctic continent... all previous landings have been islands. We were hoping to swim here also, but the current here was also too strong... the launches had trouble loading/unloading both at the ship and at the landing site.
We're almost “penguined out,” so we decided to climb the hill and body surf down in the snow. I have given up taking pictures because we have such good photographers, with such great equipment, in our group. But I continue to bring the iPhone for some quick movies. This time, I got Melanie body-sliding down the slope. For this blog, the pictures will have to do.
On a personal note, a big, big Antarctic “happy birthday” to our second-born daughter Tara. We had a laugh (and were quite impressed) when our eight-year-old grandson Jack answered our birthday call. I said “Greetings from Antarctica!” ... Jack laughed, and without missing a beat, replied, “Hello from North America!” ... the kid is quick :-) Rob
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